ژانویه 2009

«Architecture … initiated … with decoration of tombs.»
Will Durant, story of civilization, 1st volume.

Many people, even those who live in Tehran, don`t know that there are many historical cemeteries (about 140) in Tehran. Overall area of these places is about 100 hectares which is noticeable in a dense city like Tehran. Unfortunately, these cemeteries are abandoned and ignored and gently being destroyed and are in very poor quality situations.
First main cemetery in Tehran located in a place which now named as «Sar-e-ghabr-e-Aghe». This small place that now a day is located in central core of city and near Bazaar, was efficient for Tehran up to 150 years ago (1869 A.D.) that its population reached to less than 100 thousand people.
After expanding the borders of Tehran, the sites around the holy tombs in Rey, an old city in south of Tehran, have been noticed for the purpose of burying the death. «Ebn-e-Babooye», «Mashallah mosque», «Tomb of Abdollah and Bibi Zobeydeh» and «Baghcheh Toti» are the most famous cemeteries there. Fortunately, most of these places have not been destroyed and are great cultural treasures for Tehran.
On the other hand, all villages near Tehran jointed to it after city`s expansion and all holy tombs which are now located in the city, have a small cemetery. In addition, since about 60 years ago, a big cemetery, «Mesgar Abad» in south-east of Tehran had established and now it has ruined.
In 1970, influenced by modernism thoughts, a new huge cemetery has been established out of the city and far away from its border in south of Tehran. Up to now, it is the main cemetery of the city and more than one million people were buried there.
All the minorities groups who live in Tehran, according to their religious (Christians, Jews, Zoroastrians and Bahais) have their own cemetery. In «Doolaab» Neighbor there are 5 charming historical cemeteries. Also other cemeteries are in south-east of Tehran (near «Mesgar Abad»).
Unfortunately, as mentioned above, most of cemeteries are in very poor quality and being ruined. Governors, intellectuals, researchers and citizens pay no attention to these spaces (except few famous cemeteries) and may believe that they should be modified to new public land-use like parks. But I myself believe that the importance of the cemeteries (generally or locally) is much more than they are being ruined and eliminated because of:
1- Cemeteries, generally, are ritual spaces; these spaces demonstrate the beliefs of the people toward death. A cemetery is space in which obviously can be realized the importance or lacking importance of death between a civilization. Notification to death accompanied with special ceremonies has a great influence on people`s life and their behaviors. Notice to the death and even the changing of it can be easily comprehended by visiting cemeteries in all cities, also in Tehran.
2- Cemetery is a spiritual space; according to the religious beliefs, cemeteries are specific place. Many logion (prophet`s words) have been quoted about the importance of cemeteries. Islamic ideology emphasizes on the locating cemeteries in or nearby the neighborhoods. On the other hand, cemetery is a hegemonic space in religious and ethnic belief.
3- Cemeteries are artistic-historical object; tombs and graves include many cultural signs and symbols. Many of grave stones individually can be observed as an artistic object, and if they belong to old past, a historic value adds them. Cemeteries of Tehran are places in which there are great amount of cultural heritages.
4- Cemetery is the memory of a place; every single grave stone is like a stamp mark been put on a place and addresses the past of that place and identifies its neighbor. Also many famous lie in these cemetries that were significant in history.
I believe that these valuable spaces should be preserved and each of them has to be planned individually in order to increase their quality. New spaces are not some thing like other ordinary land-uses. They are some unique things which give to city identification and sense of place.
In conclusion, I propose you to visit some of these places.
1- «Ebn-e-Babooye», «Mashallah mosque», «Tomb of Abdollah and Bibi Zobeydeh» , «Baghcheh Toti» and «Bibi Shahr Banoo» in Rey.
2- 5 cemeteries in «Doolaab» (French, Russian, Catholic, Assyrian and Armenian).
3- «Zahir al Doleh» in «Tajrish».
4- Jewish cemetery in «khavaran».
5- Cemetery of dead soldiers in World War II in «Dolat».
6- Cemeteries in «Kan», «Farahzad», «Bagh-e-Feyz», «Poonak», «Yaft abad», «Lavizan», «Chizar», «Daar abad» and «Emamzadeh Ghasem».



What is a good coffee shop? What criteria would you use to define a good coffee shop? Would it be the quality of the coffee? The quality of service? The space and surroundings? Maybe its accessibility? What exactly is a good coffee shop? Is it possible to have a universal definition of it, so that in every city, anywhere in the world, all the good coffee shops would be the same and would share the same criteria? But – and we always need a ‘but’ – maybe a good coffee shop is, first of all, a place that you like to go back to; a place that you enjoy to be. A place that you are prepared to travel a long distance to, even though the decoration a bit tired, the chairs or benches are not so comfortable, and the service might be very so-so, but there is something that makes you want to go back there. At least, this is how I would define it.

I asked a friend to give me a list of her favourite coffee shops. She is a very demanding person, but we share this same approach to defining a good coffee shop. And so, I give you a list of the best coffee shops in Tehran, as she gave it to me. If you use coffee shops, if you care about them, and if have a favourite that you like to return to again and again, please add it to the list.


رستوران چارمیز در چهارراه کالج

رستوران کوچکی است که در اوایل اسفند ماه ۸۶ در خیابان حافظ، کمی بالاتر از چهارراه کالج و نبش کوچه آرژانتین گشایش یافته و رضوانه، مدیر و آشپز و پیشخدمت چهارمیز در آن، اسپاگتی گیاهی سرو میکند. فضای کوچکی دارد که چهار میز دو تا چهار نفره را در خود گنجانده است.


خانواده اسماعیل‌پور، آقا فری و همسرش زهرا خانم و گاهی دخترهایش، همین بیخ گوش ما در خیابان فریمان، نزدیكی‌های طالقانی قهوه‌خانه کوچکی را می‌گردانند که می‌شود ظهرها را در آن گذراند. قهوه‌خانه یکی از نشانه‌های رو به فراموشی شهرهای بزرگ و خاصه تهران است که هر روز از تعدادش کاسته می‌شود.


شمال چهارراه مژده در خیابان نیاوران، در قرمز پُر رنگی شما را به جهانی ورای لذائذ عادی زیست هدایت می‌كند. محیط لانژ همانطور كه از نامش بر می‌آید، بی‌شیله‌پیله است و آرام. یله‌گاهی است با سقف بلند ِ اُریب، نورپردازی ظریف، و موسیقی روح‌افزا كه به راحتی از جاز كوبایی به پینك‌فلوید می‌لغزد. دكوراسیون مینمال، میزهای چوبی و صندلی‌های چرمیِ تیره‌رنگ را در كنار دیوارهای روشنی قرار داده است كه برشی از آهن با زاویه آنرا قطع می‌كند و حس و حالی را بوجود می‌آورد تا ناخودآگاه با اولین حضور میهماندار  سیاه‌پوش بر سر میزتان سفارش م. با یخ بدهید.

کافه ۷۸

در خيابان آبان، میان این کافه‌نشینان جماعت فرهنگ و هنر سهم بسزایی دارند.


خيابان فلسطين شمالی را سربالا برويد و از يکی از کوچه‌های غربی خود را به خيابان کبگانيان برسانيد و در اواسط نبش خيابان پنجم کنج را بيابيد.


خیابان گاندی ،موسيقی کلاسيک و قهوه ترک


در خيابان سى‌‌تير (قوام السلطنه سابق)، كمى بالاتر از كوچه مصريها، كه سَردرِ خانه ايرج ميرزا را هنوز مى‌توان در آن جستجو كرد و درست روبروى كوچه‌اى كه انديشمند و محقق نامدار مجتبى مينوى روزى در آن زندگى مى‌كرده (كوچه رحمتى جاهد، يا نوبهار)، قهوه‌خانه‌اى خواهيد يافت كه در نوع خود در تهران منحصر به فرد است. گُل‌رضاييه.


کافه‌ای بسيار ساده است که قريب به دو دهه‌ای می‌شود که در انتهای خيابان جم قرار گرفته. در محيطی مستطيل شکل و بدون هيچ زرق و برقی و در آن تنها به ضروريات پرداخته شده که اتفاقاً اين خود بسيار زيباست.


خیابان فرشته،میدان فرشته

کافه گالری

تجریش، چهارراه حسابی

کافه و اسنک

خیابان قائم مقام، ابتدای خیابان جم